The Spaghetti Tour in the Monte Rosa massif is one of the most legendary and beautiful multi-day alpine tours in the Alps. A total of ten four-thousand-metre peaks are climbed in 5 days. A special highlight is the overnight stay at the Margherita hut, the highest hut in the Alps at 4,500 meters.
Spaghetti tour in the Monte Rosa Massif
The Monte Rosa massif is surrounded by majestic glaciers and comprises ten peaks with an altitude of over 4000 meters. It stretches across the borders of Switzerland and is partly located on Italian territory. The highest peak in Switzerland, the Dufourspitze (4,634 m), is characterized by a black rocky ridge.
As one of the ten main peaks in the Monte Rosa massif and the highest peak in Switzerland, the Dufourspitze competes with the Dom at 4,545 m, the highest mountain that lies entirely on Swiss soil.
The Dufourspitze was originally called the Gornerhorn. However, it was renamed in honor of the Swiss general Guillaume-Henri Dufour. Dufour was the first general in the history of the Swiss army.
The Monte Rosa hut (2,883 m) can be reached from the Rotenboden station of the Gornergratbahn. The challenging 3-4 hour alpine route leads over steep moraines and rocks. At the entrance to the Gorner Glacier, there is an iron ladder about 15 meters high to negotiate.
Spaghetti tour to prepare for the Matterhorn
The classic route of the Spaghetti Tour in preparation for the Matterhorn ascent starts at the Monte Rosa Hut, runs along the border between Italy and Switzerland and ends at the Klein Matterhorn mountain station.
Another option for the Spaghetti Tour is to take the cable car to Klein Matterhorn (3,820 m) and from there to the Breithorn (4,164 m), the first summit of the Spaghetti Tour.
5-day tour Monte Rosa adventure
Day 1: 4.0 hours
From the Klein Matterhorn 3820 m leisurely ascent to the summit of the Breithorn 4164 m. Magnificent view of the prominent four-thousand-meter peaks. Along the southern flank to the Schwarztor and descent to the Rifugio Guida d’Ayas 3394m.
Day 2: 5.5 hours
Ascent in the direction of Zwillingsjoch to the summit of Castor 4223 m. With views from the highest point to the nearby Lyskamm and the view down over the twin glaciers. Then to the Rifugio Sella 3585 m.
Day 3: 6.5 hours
Along the south side of the Lyskamm to Naso 4272 m. Descent on rock to the Balmenhorn 4167 m. Vincent pyramid 4215 m with great views as far as the Upper Italian lakes. Then descent to Rifugio Mantova 3400 m.
Day 4: 6.5 hours
Route to the Lysjoch, past the Rifugio Gnifetti and ascent to the 4000 m limit and Nero 4321 m, the Ludwigshöhe 4341 m and the Parrotspitze 4432 m, and the Signalkuppe 4554 m with the Capanna Margherita (Margherita hut). The view of the lights of Varese and Milan in the evening is simply gigantic.
Day 5: 6.0 hours
Zumsteinspitze 4563m with the intoxicating view down the mighty east face to Macugnaga more than 3000 meters below, then down over the huge Grenz Glacier, past the ice-armoured north face of the Lyskamm to the Monte Rosa Hut, then to Rotenboden and via the Gornergrat Bahn to Zermatt.
Highest mountain hut in the Alps
The Margherita hut is located on the Signalkuppe in the Monte Rosa massif and sits spectacularly at an altitude of 4,554 m, making it the highest building in Europe. The hut is located in the immediate vicinity of the Swiss border and mainly serves as a refuge for mountaineers.
The Margherita hut – Capanna Regina Margherita – is best reached from the Gnifetti hut (3,625 m). First ascend to the Zurbriggenjoch. Cross the pass, pass the Seserjoch on Swiss territory and continue steeply towards the Signalkuppe.
The hut is an ideal starting point for glacier tours to the Zumsteinspitze, Dufourspitze, Nordend and Liskamm peaks.
The Spaghetti Route in the Monte Rosa massif is legendary and one of the most beautiful multi-day alpine tours in the Alps.
Video descent from the Margherita hut via the Monte Rosa border glacier
End of the 5-day super high-altitude tour classic of the Spaghetti Tour in Valais over the 4000m peaks of the Monte Rosa mountains…
Video THE SPAGHETTIRUNDE – 5-day high tour in Monte Rosa
Spaghetti tour: super high-altitude tour classic in Valais over the 4000-metre peaks of the Monte Rosa mountains…