Spaghetti Round: Climbing skills up to UIAA 3+ are required to climb the Matterhorn. Another requirement is the safe use of crampons and ice axe. Good acclimatization and very good fitness are basic requirements. High-alpine mountain and climbing tours such as the Zinalrothorn, Breithorn crossing, climbing on the Riffelhorn or the famous complete Spaghetti Round are recommended as preparation.
UIAA stands for “Union Internationale des Associations d’Alpinisme” and is the international umbrella organization for mountain sports. UIAA grades are used to assess the difficulty of a climbing route or via ferrata.
A UIAA 3+ climbing route is a route that is relatively straight, but still requires some easy climbing passages. Climbers should be able to move safely on the rope and use simple climbing techniques in order to successfully complete a UIAA 3+ route.
Spaghetti round as preparation for Matterhorn ascent
The Spaghetti Round is an alpine climbing tour that can serve as preparation for climbing the Matterhorn. It leads through the Valais mountain massif in Switzerland. An impressive 18 four-thousand-metre peaks are lined up here, including the highest peak in Switzerland, the Dufourspitze (4,634 m), 156 m higher than the Matterhorn (4,478 m). The classic route starts at the Monte Rosa hut in Zermatt, runs along the border between Italy and Switzerland and ends at the Klein Matterhorn mountain station.
The Spaghetti Round has been given its name over the years due to its location on the Italian south side of the Mt. Rosa massif, although the start and finish of the tour are in the Swiss canton of Valais. During the tour, climbers often spend the night in Italian huts, where pasta or minestrone is usually served as an appetizer. The name “Spaghetti Round” is therefore derived from this tradition.
The Spaghetti Round is considered very challenging and requires solid climbing skills as well as good fitness and experience in alpine terrain. The tour includes some difficult climbing passages with UIAA grades up to 5c and 6a, as well as glacier passages and abseils.
The Spaghetti Round is a popular practice tour for mountaineers who want to climb the Matterhorn, as it offers a good opportunity to get used to the alpine terrain and the technical demands of such an expedition.
Video high tour in Valais: spaghetti round
The Spaghetti Round as preparation for the Matterhorn is a challenging high-altitude traverse in Valais.
Video spaghetti round – a superlative high tour
5 Tage und acht 4.000er – Durchquerung des Monte Rosa.