Eiger north face with mountain guide

Bernes Oberland

The majestic yet frightening north face of the Eiger rises proudly above the valley of Grindelwald. It is hardly surprising that climbing the north face of the Eiger is seen as something special.

Eiger north face as seen from Mürren

Eiger north face as seen from Mürren

In order to tackle this challenge, it is very important that mountain guides and climbers know and trust each other. To this end, practice tours are organized where those who want to conquer the north face of the Eiger can get to know the terrain, the techniques and their mountain guide. A solid technique and mental preparation help to ensure that the ascent of the Eiger North Face is an absolute highlight.

A regular guided tour of the north face of the Eiger usually takes 2 days and includes an overnight stay in a bivouac inside the wall. The descent is via the west flank, through snow and rock passages. On this tour, it is extremely important that the mountain guide is able to assess the climber and their individual climbing level.

The best time is between October and May, when the temperatures are lower and the risk of falling rocks is therefore lower.

For a 2-day tour, the costs are between CHF 4,500 and CHF 5,500.

Requirements for climbing the north face of the Eiger

The ascent via the Heckmair route requires a good physical condition, safe and fast climbing in combined terrain as well as excellent rope and safety techniques.

The route is classified as extremely difficult as it has steep passages of up to 80°. In total, around 3,000 meters have to be climbed and 1,800 meters of altitude have to be conquered. The climbing time varies between 10 and 20 hours depending on the conditions and fitness level.

Climbing the north face of the Eiger therefore requires significantly higher standards than, for example, climbing the Matterhorn.

Video The Eiger Sanction Disaster: Clint Eastwood’s Deadliest Film Shoot

In the Summer of 1974, Spaghetti Western movie-star & director Clint Eastwood would travel to Switzerland to film a movie on the infamous North Face of the Eiger. This is the story of the true cost of completing this film.

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The Eiger Sanction Disaster: Clint Eastwood's Deadliest Film Shoot

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Video Eiger – Heckmair Route – Climbing the North face

Eiger - Heckmair Route - Climbing the Nordwand

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